Chasing Giants: The Timeless Allure of Big Waves November 7, 2025 11:55

Fred Pompermayer Nov. 6, 2025

Welcome back, wave lovers and surf dreamers! Today, we’re diving into the thrilling world of big-wave surfing a realm that’s always charged with adrenaline, mystery, and a deep connection to nature’s raw power. Whether you’ve caught a glimpse of towering swells on TV or just admire surfers who dance with danger, this post shines a light on how big waves shaped surf culture, starting from humble origins to feared and revered playgrounds.

Big Waves

For a long time the big waves were in the background of the world of surf; it started first in Hawaii, with your famous big waves like 20-foot swell at Waimea Bay in the 1940s and 1950s.

In 1975, when Jeff Clark was 17 years old with experience in surf at Half Moon Bay High School, Jeff made his first solo session in the big waves formed by the swell a half mile from the shore, where the big wave itself forms when the swell a massive water hits the submerged reef formation on the ocean floor and emerging monster waves barrel in the sea to make your show each year in winter. He surfed the spot for 15 years alone, nowadays Jeff Clark is a active legend with all your experience and history.

Since then the group of surfers that search to challenge this type of wave has grown but still is for a select few in comparison with the group of the other surf styles.

Other places have been added in this world of big waves, like Teahupoo, Waimea bay, Cortes bank, Puerto Escondido, The right, Shipsterns Bluff and Nazaré.

These locations have become iconic destinations for big wave surfers seeking extreme challenges. The evolution of equipment and techniques has also played a crucial role in enabling surfers to tackle these massive waves safely. Today, big wave surfing continues to grow in popularity, attracting a dedicated community passionate about pushing the limits of the sport.

The physical and mental demands of big wave surfing require surfers to maintain peak fitness and develop specialized skills such as breath-holding and wave reading. Innovations in safety gear, including inflatable vests and jet skis for rescue, have significantly reduced risks associated with the sport. As a result, big wave surfing events have gained international recognition, showcasing the talents of elite surfers on some of the world’s most formidable waves.

The Birthplace of Big Wave Surfing

Long before the term "big wave" was common, the legends of the ocean were quietly unfolding on the shores of Hawaii. Iconic spots like Makaha became synonymous with massive, sculpted waves that tested the courage and skill of anyone willing to face them. By the mid-20th century, these waves were more than just natural phenomena they were the beating heart of a burgeoning surf culture that celebrated challenge, respect, and thrill.

Mavericks: The Untamed Frontier

While Hawaii laid the foundation, the story of big waves isn’t complete without mentioning Mavericks, the notorious surf break just north of California. What many don’t know is the incredible tale of a fearless pioneer Alex Matienzo, Jim Thompson, and Dick Knottmeyer who discovered Mavericks years before it became famous. He courageously studied and surfed those monstrous waves solo for over a decade, enduring isolation and the raw force of the Pacific to truly understand its rhythm. His quiet dedication helped unlock Mavericks’ secrets and inspire the next generation of big-wave surfers worldwide.If you'd like to know about the chronological history of the Mavericks, take a look at this site .

Todos os Santos

It is another spot that is emerging as a big wave too, and the surfers call it “killer.” Your history starts in 1960 when it was first surfed by members of the Windansea Surf Club from La Jolla, California. In the 1980s, it gained fame and significance in the surfing community during the winter months, known as the season of "killers." Nowadays it is one of the best big-wave destinations; the spot gained fame for world-record-setting rides. And host major events now as the "Thriller At Killers" contest. The “Killer” is capable of emerging waves with up to 60 feet or more on its biggest moments in winter days from Nov. to March, and on typical large days can exceed 20 feet.

Mullaghmore Head

It is one of Ireland's spots for surfing in the Atlantic Ocean, where big waves emerge at 60 feet, making it a premier big-wave location. The site is on County Sligo, on the northwest coast of Ireland, formed by an ancient river delta, a geological unit of alternating shales and thick sandstone forming a rock reef where the waves break when the swell hits it, which makes the situation extremely dangerous. The season of big waves is from Oct. to March. Events, films, and documentaries have been made on the place about surfing big waves.

Fred Pompermayer Nov 6, 2025

Why Do We Keep Chasing These Giants?

There’s something undeniably magnetic about big waves. They represent a pure, elemental challenge that pushes surfers beyond comfort zones and into moments of clarity and connection. Each wave is a story, and behind every ride lies a dance with risk, respect, and sometimes even fear. For many, it’s less about conquering nature and more about coexisting with it finding harmony between the human spirit and the ocean’s majesty.

For the Adventurous Spirit

If you’re inspired by these tales, there’s a whole world of stories, documentaries, and films that capture big-wave surfing’s raw intensity—check out classics like The Endless Summer or contemporary gems like Ride the Lightning. And whether you’re a seasoned surfer or a curious observer, remember: every great wave whispered its own secrets to those who dared to wait and listen.

Thanks for joining me as we celebrated the giants of the ocean today. Next week, we’ll explore what it takes to prepare for those spine-tingling rides from training tips to gear essentials. Until then, may your own waves, big or small, keep calling you back to adventure.

Stay stoked and keep chasing the thrill!

The 2025 season for Mavericks is starting, and many other big wave enthusiasts and I will be there. I am eagerly anticipating this incredible occasion!